Saturday, May 5, 2012

Hinamatsuri 雛祭り

March 3

It's "girl's day", a time to wish for the health and happiness of daughters. Not having a daughter, I don't need to display the traditional "hina ningyo" dolls, but I do happen to live near Iwatsuki, a town in Saitama, famous for handcrafted dolls. I'm not really a big fan of dolls - and some can look downright creepy with their little painted teeth and glassy eyes. But it's nice to see a tradition continue. Traditional Hina Ningyo are dressed as members of a Heian court with emperor and empress, courtiers and musicians.

If you happen to go to Iwatsuki (and who wouldn't - it's got a funky Showa-style street and a Yoshinoya!) it's worth dropping by Togyoku doll store and museum, near the station.




Grandparents usually buy elaborate dolls when a girl is born in the family, and these can be passed down through the generations, adding more courtiers until you need a whole room to display them! Japanese friends who have them say you also have to pack them away as soon as the festival is over or you'll never get married! No pressure.

But what about the food, you say? It's not a Japanese festival without food! There's shirozake - sake with a very low alcohol content, made from fermented mochi rice. It tastes like alcohol without the buzz and tasting it once was enough. Hina arare are sweet rice crisps coloured like spring. Actually, anything pink is probably appropriate! Pink, green and white are the main colours of the new season.

Not exactly hina arare, but close

Hello Kitty and Koala no Machi come to the party. And a little pink wine.

The traditional dish for hina matsuri is chirashi zushi, or 'scattered sushi'. It looks beautiful, with the colours of the new season. Since my husband isn't a fan of chirashi zushi, I took myself off to Vegetable Sushi Potager in Roppongi, for a completely vegetarian version. Almost too pretty to eat. I felt very virtuous afterwards, but had to head up to Midtown for a coffee and a chocolate brownie about an hour later.

All the colours of spring! The rice is coloured pink with beetroot, I think.

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